Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Hell's Backbone Grill ... Heavenly!

Laurie and Steve, our friends in Chico, had a cookbook from a restaurant called "Hells Backbone Grill".  Laurie told us how much she loved the food and the people who ran this local organic cafe in the most remote region of Southern Utah.   Boulder, UT, population 300, is a quaint and quiet farm community in the midst of a seemingly barren landscape.  Solid rock ridges surround the village, protecting it from development and industry; its mostly uninhabitable and just too far away.  The town itself is mostly pasture, green and lush, and it sits upon a deep aquifer, providing endless sweet-mineral rich water for drinking and irrigation.  The town folk are mostly farmers and ranchers, with a smattering of small business owners, and of course a token fire station, post office, elementary school and church (though the town could never support more than one of each).  This place has attracted burnt out city folk who come to live a more peaceful existence, and wary travelers (such as ourselves) who relish a pristine and tranquil ecosystem and exuberant starlight in the evening.  You see, Boulder, UT is devoid of noise and air pollution, traffic, billboards, and all the other factors that disrupt our natural state of well being.

And in the midst of this fertile environment, there is a sanctuary.......The Boulder Lodge.  In such a remote locale, one might fear the village fare to be deep fried, conventional, white bread.  But no!  Hell's Backbone Grill delivered the most exquisite food we've ever tasted.  They are committed to using local and organic ingredients.  To support this commitment, they have several gardens and mini orchards around the area.  They also like using wild ingredients such as tumble weed.  I enjoyed the jack cheese tumble weed quesadilla with chipotle red onion salsa.  The cafe itself is in a octagonal building surrounded by thick flower and herb gardens, little ponds and waterways, outdoor decks and stone pathways winding through the gardens up to the front door.  We just wanted to stay there all day.

On top of that the people who worked there were just delightful.  Our favorite server Stacy was a woman in her late 40's who upon visiting Boulder Utah last year, immediately quit her job as DOD counsler for Guantanamo Bay, and settled in this peaceful oasis working at this simple joy-filled job; that is, growing, preparing and serving phenomenal food.  Oh!  I share blood with that woman!  She was a perfect server and someone I would like to get to know some day.  She enjoyed our delight over the fresh fruit over local handmade ice cream.  Dave indulged in the chocolate mouse pie and was so enraptured he couldn't talk until he had finished the last bite.



All that great food and deep sleep energized us for an adventure.  We went to seek a swimming hole deep in the creases of the Utah rock.  The pathway was obscure because we were walking over smooth sandstone, but other travelers had placed rock stacks as landmarks to help us get down to the stream.  It was blazing hot as we hiked down for three miles.  We were dripping with sweat when we found the deep green swimming hole.  And no one else was around.  So we just had to go skinny dipping!


The water was clean and cold.  We went for several rounds of diving in getting chilly then laying out on the rock like lizards.  We never saw another soul while down there.  Of course the hike back up was very steep and we dripped with sweat.  Before we left, I took one more leap into the cold water and did not even dry off before donning just bathing suit and hiking sandals for the hike up.


There was a moss-covered mini water fall that fed the pool and we though about trying it out as a slippy slide, but neither was willing to risk a scraped bum. 

In the mornings we look a jog around the area and discovered a small herd of sheep pastured with two llamas.  The rancher told us the llamas protect the sheep from dogs.   Apparently they aren't afraid of anything and will charge any creature that threatens the sheep.  This rancher also told us that Boulder UT was the last city in the US to get mail by motor vehicle.  Just ten years ago their mail was still delivered by horse back!  Now that's remote.

Before leaving Boulder Utah for Boulder Colorado, we took another adventure to a slot canyon.  The road to it was impressive as well.  Here Dave is looking up at the high red walls lining the road.  The slot canyon itself was about 15 feet wide with walls on either side about 150 feet high.  The morning light played beautifully among the rock and trees.  Both Dave and I have a new appreciation for Utah.  Gone are the images of endless desert and tumble weed.  And we will always hold the sweet energy of Boulder Utah in our hearts.  It was just the type of quiet rural area we would like to settle in.



















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